Updating a Bios is not dangerous, if you do it correctly.
Heck i’ve even modified my current Bios so it can boot from an NVME disk, cause it is not supported on the Z77 chipset
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Unless you plan for some heavy overclocking or multi GPU, 850W is an overkill.
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Well my current PSU is 750W and they don’t have any 750 ones available. Also, in the future if I upgrade my 2080 Ti to the 3080 Ti, it might require more power.
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Have you tried to measure the power consumption? I did recently on my Ryzen 2600X, and (at that time) RTX 2080ti, when running a gaming session in KCD and having the GPU already power limited by BIOS. The wall power measured was ~470W.
When surfing, the PC needs about 70W.
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Yes, I once owned an APC UPS which measured around 300 to 400 Watts under medium load. But the point is, for a 2080 Ti it’s always recommended to go above the typical power draw to allow for headroom I guess.
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With some PSU`s they do not sustain 750watts, they only peek that power, look for one that can sustain 750watts.
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Gigabyte usually has a dual bios feature as a fall back in case a flash doesn’t take. It is a good idea to keep bios up-to-date as it improves compatibility and can can fix issues one might be experiencing. Ie system crashes and other instabilities.
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If you’re willing to update the FW on a Pimax then you should be OK on the MB 
Just follow the instructions and don’t do anything obviously unwise like cutting the power mid-way through the process.
Corsair RM750X for me, running great with i9, 2080 Ti, water cooler etc
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Modest system here, I built a few years back:
Intel I5 6600K @4.5 OC, Gigabyte GA-Z170XP mobo, GAMMAXX GTE Cooler, MSI GTX 1080TI Gaming X gpu (factory OC), SoundBlaster X-F1 sound card, 16 gig Corsair Vengeance ddr4 ram @ 3200 , 4 ssd hds, EVGA 650 Gold Power modular power supply, Masterbox 5 modular case.
Seldom break 60C degrees under load. The GAMMAXX actually runs the proc cooler than my original Corsair liquid cooler did by several degrees (max 66 under full load stress test). The case affords me hiding most wiring behind the back panel so lots of empty space allowing the three fans to draw air effectively through the front and out the rear and mostly top of the case.
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Yep. Love Gigabyte boards. Use to be an ASUS fan, but found the dual bios feature quite handy on my previous build when local hydro construction kept flaking my power. It’s restored my bios on several occasions during those days without issue. Great for overclockers.
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Respectfully, I disagree. The closer a PSU gets to max load, the noisier/dirtier its power output will be (more ripple), the worse its response time to changing loads will be, and likely, the less capacitance it will have to ride through millisecond glitches on the input power (which happen very often). At CES, the PC builder had a 1.6kW PSU, running probably a <600W load at the time, and I suspect with good reason.
Single-rail is also a crucial feature of course.
@NextGenVR
Currently, I like CX850 PSUs. Several have proven reliable for me over the years. Also, do NOT update your BIOS unnecessarily. Yes, it is low risk, but why would it resolve the smell? Start by replacing the PSU.
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The BIOS question was not in regards to the smell, so yes upgrade your BIOS when a new one is released.
I can’t see why one should not do that, I’ve been in the pc hardware industry for more than 20 years, and it has solved alot of issues updating the BIOS on an MB.
True, never fixed an issue with smelly pc parts 
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I ended up ordering the Corsair RMx 850W ATX Modular 80+ Gold PSU from BestBuy.
I’ve never setup a PSU and there’s so many cables connected to my current one. I hope I don’t mess things up when installing the new one. Just keeping track of which cables go where is gonna be a headache.
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In general, the connectors won’t fit, unless it’s a valid power configuration. If possible, remove the original power supply from the case, while keeping the interior cables connected. Insert the new power supply, then one-at-a-time route each power cable to it’s destination, following the original cable path.
However, if it’s a “rat’s nest”, you are better off rewiring from scratch. In that case, attach the thickest cables first, trying to find an optimum path that allows for the most airflow through the case. Repeat with the medium-sized cables, and then the thinnest. Don’t be afraid to reroute SATA (disk drive) and other non-power cables, if you can achieve a neater setup.
Tip: you can use double-sided Velcro ties (which can be reused, or zip ties) to hold things in place. I like these a lot, although I bought a 6-pack (1 of each color):
Color-coded wire bundles can help keep things organized and is helpful for trouble-shooting.
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I successfully updated my computer’s bios from F6 to the latest F10e version and my computer runs fine without any issues. 
The only annoying thing though is that whenever I restart my computer, it loads the Preparing Automatic Repair screen and I have to click “Continue”, then press the F12 key to open boot manager and then select the first option “Windows Boot Manager (Kingston SAXXXXXXXXXXX)”. After doing that Windows starts up normally. How do I fix this so that whenever my computer restarts, it automatically selects the correct boot manager instead of going to Automatic Repair screen?
Edit: I fixed this problem by simply changing the boot sequence in the bios
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Yes I will be keeping track of exactly where each cable plugs into and making sure I follow an identical setup for my new PSU when it arrives. I wouldn’t say it’s that messy. It is a bit messy but I’m able to see where the cables go.
What exactly do you mean by that? I checked and my Z390 UD motherboard is compatible with the new PSU I bought. The new PSU is 100 watts higher than my current one.
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The connectors have different shapes, so that you can’t plug a connector into the wrong socket or insert it with the wrong orientation (flipped). Basically, don’t force it. If it doesn’t seem to fit, something is wrong.
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Guys, I’m at a crossroads and I really need your help. I received my new power supply but I’m still removing the old one.
I’ve managed to get the old PSU out of the chasis, and have removed all cables except for 3. The 24 pin power connector to the MB feels impossible to remove. No matter how much I try to pull and wiggle it around it doesn’t move an inch. It seems like it might have been glued or something I have no idea. (Yes I pressed in on the release clip in every attempt of pulling it). I’ve spent the past 4 hours just removing cables and carefully documenting their locations. Here’s the 24 pin connector:
I’ve also tried putting a flat screw driver and paper clip into the side while pulling and it didn’t fit in the gap. My motherboard flexes a bit when I pull/wiggle. What should I do? I’m considering taking it to a repair shop and having them remove it.
After the 24pin, the only 2 cables remaining are
First a cable that splits into 2 4 pin connectors for CPU
Second a cable that I was surprised wasn’t plugged into anything except for a mini cable attached to it that goes into this chip on the other side of the motherboard:
You can’t see it in the photo but at the left end of the top connector, there are small white tubes that kind of look like they’re permanently attached to the board. But that might just be an illusion.
Anyways, main issue right now is getting the 24pin connector detached. 
P.S: I found out the reason my front USB ports might’ve been having problems is because the cable for them was very loosely plugged into the MB. I pushed it in fully.
The white tubes are were the SOCKET is soldered to the board, the PLUG is in the Socket.
Some plugs have a clip on one side that you have to pinch to release the plug, ALL plugs go into sockets on the board.
On the 24 pin connecter, make sure you are not pulling on the socket, and only pull on the wires and plug wile pinching the clip.
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Regarding the 24 pin, yes I made sure not to pull on the socket. I can see a clear divide between the socket and the connector. But it feels really hard. It’s like trying to get two very attached lego pieces seperated. I’ll try removing one of my ram sticks tomorrow to give more space for trying to wiggle it out.
By the way, I don’t know if this is normal but I have two outlets on my old PSU that plug into the single MB power source. The cables split and then merge at the end where the 24pin connector is.