Removed the MAS and got about 680g just for the 8kX. Again, give or take.
Ok, so the weight difference is almost exclusively the MAS.
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The 8kX hass additional Electronics and the blue housing is likely heavier than the black.
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lol , you mean the weight of the blue paint
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Rubberized paint…
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And the additional electronics
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More electronics bigger audio amps=more heat, greater insulation + more heat= more cracks?
Up to now I at least haven’t read about issues with the new housing. Think quite a few 8k+ are in the field now. Fingers crossed!
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Ok, last missing number: 5k+ without headstrap gives me 560g. So electronics + housing would be about 120g or ~20% heavier.
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It’s not pretty but it does the job for me 
checked again for cracks and discovered a new one (last pic) so here we go again 
I used a little toothpick. Took a bit of superglue on the tip and carefully applied it on the crack again and again with drying in between. I worked vertically, so no droplet can potentially damage parts inside.
Good luck, yours are much bigger 
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Sadly I don’t have an accurate weighing machine with the precision required. mine goes by the increments of 100g with ±100g error so it’s really not reliable enough.
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Also wouldn’t put my hands in fire regarding the accuracy of the measurement above. The luggage scale is usually made for heavier stuff, e.g. to check whether hand luggage is still within allowed limits.
At least I get the same results within 10g precision for several measurements. But without some standard weights it is hard to tell how accurate this is over which value range. In case somebody needs to know all the details (including housing vs electronics etc.) - best ask Pimax, think nobody will start to disassemble their 8kX for science 
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My 203 replacement has started to crack as well. It’s not as severe as the original but a couple of hairline cracks have appeared. This has definitely affected my next buying decision.
Unless I see indications future Pimax headsets aren’t going to crack, my next purchase will not be Pimax. Time will tell.
My 4 year old CV1 and Vive headsets never cracked. Let that be the standard @PimaxVR
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it’s a shame weight was a selling point, I think they simply made the walls too thin trying to cut down. other headsets have substantially thicker materials but they also have much smaller housings so it’s easier to get away with the weight of a more sturdy housing.
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In replacing my 2nd cracked 5k+ 4 months ago I begged for a 204 serial number but was given a 203. In the support ticket correspondence I was told this:
“The 203 and 204 do not mean the housing is different. Their housing materials are the same. The crack issue with housing is not a material problem, which is a small batch issue that arises in the production process of housing. We have posted a statement about this. We have optimized the production process very early and have also increased QA testing. So, the crack has rarely appeared in the current.”
It became apparent they would not give me a 204 so I relented. What choice did I have? Sure enough the 203 now has cracks. After only 4 months of tender handling and only about 10-15 hours actual use. What a bunch of bullst!t.
And the bummer is my plan was to recoup some money to offset my 8kx. Well I’m sure that value just dropped by a few hundred! God I must be an idiot to hand over $950 more dollars to these guys! But I want that high res and no SDE SO bad! Sucker!!!
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is the glue black or clear?
yeah, im not convinced that the rugged housing will not eventually crack , because its an outer coat. I feel like the inner shell will still be under the same pressure.
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yeah, i get it. funny part is do you notice how people are seeing the cracks alot sooner now?
i think the countdown timer on when it cracks starts the second they come off they assembly line.
It wouldn’t surprise me if customers are getting brand new headsets that cracked while they sit in the factory waiting to be sold.
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Put in a ticket tonight for a crack in my rma unit from the end of February. Right on both bottom screws for module attachment right up the face of the pimax. No drop or hits just defective (flaw). Will be interesting to see how RE holds up! Any RE problems yet?
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I used standard clear superglue (ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate) i guess a black one should make no difference, i checked the locations of the sensors anyways (e.g. from the silicon protective sleeve pictures)
It definitely attacks the plastic a bit. As i said - its not nice, but works for me 
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FYI - Pimax specifically said not to use super-glue. I’m thinking quick-setting epoxy might be a good choice.
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